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B.C. restaurant a 91Ƶlove letter91Ƶ to Israeli and Palestinian roots of its owners

Creators of Vancouver91Ƶs Bar Haifa didn91Ƶt set out to create 91Ƶa Palestinian-Israeli thing91Ƶ
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Fadi Hakim, left, and Jason Hemi are pictured at Bar Haifa in Vancouver, B.C., Wednesday, Jan. 17, 2024. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Ethan Cairns

The collaborators behind restaurants in Vancouver and Toronto have Palestinian, Jewish and Israeli roots, and acknowledge they don91Ƶt always agree.

91ƵImagine 38 tastings for a falafel, and they would end up with like, blowups,91Ƶ co-owner Fadi Hakim says.

The team behind Toronto91Ƶs Haifa Room now have a new venue, Bar Haifa, in downtown Vancouver.

It opened on Nov. 24, just a few weeks after attacks in Israel by Hamas and the start of the Israel-Hamas war.

Hakim says he and fellow restaurateurs Waseem Dabdoub, Mark Kupfert and Joseph Eastwood had always talked about opening a Middle Eastern restaurant, but they didn91Ƶt set out thinking their collaboration was 91Ƶa Palestinian-Israeli thing.91Ƶ

The two restaurants, their menus and ingredients do, however, represent 91Ƶa love letter to where we91Ƶre from and how we grew up and how we ate,91Ƶ he says.

91ƵFor us, we were content with just having a place that we could eat at all the time, eat our parents91Ƶ food, literally, and just eat really good Middle Eastern food.91Ƶ

Hakim91Ƶs Palestinian father hails from the coastal city of Haifa. Dabdoub91Ƶs father is Palestinian, while Kupfert is Jewish from Montreal and Eastwood was born in Israel.

The team has also recruited executive chef Jason Hemi, who cut his teeth in French fine dining establishments but found his culinary home working at a Tel Aviv restaurant with 91Ƶkibbutz-style91Ƶ communal tables.

Hakim says the team originally planned to open Bar Haifa earlier last fall, but they ran into snags before finally setting the late November date.

The opening came in the wake of the attacks in which Hamas militants killed 1,200 people and took more than 200 hostage in southern Israel.

Israel has responded with airstrikes on the Gaza Strip, insisting its attacks are intended to take out Hamas and its supporters, not civilians. The health ministry in Gaza, which operates under Hamas, says more than 24,000 people have been killed in the conflict.

The Bar Haifa team members have family living in the region, and Hakim says they struggled with what to say about 91Ƶthe worst thing that could possibly happen.91Ƶ

They came up with a public statement.

91ƵThe Haifa Room is owned by both Palestinians and Israelis and we have many family members living in Israel and Palestine,91Ƶ they said on Instagram. 91ƵOur hearts and thoughts go out to all the innocent civilians in the land we love. We are heartbroken.91Ƶ

But they declined to speak with reporters who showed up in Toronto seeking comments about the Oct. 7 attacks.

91ƵWe politely turned them down 91Ƶ We serve humus,91Ƶ says Hakim. 91ƵAll we can really say is just, come in, come one, come all, break some bread.91Ƶ

There are some 91Ƶdiffering opinions91Ƶ among the team members, Hakim says, but they have to work together, and ultimately, they91Ƶre like 91Ƶbrothers.91Ƶ

Chef Hemi had been working at another Toronto restaurant for just a few weeks at the tail end of the COVID-19 pandemic, when he heard the founders of the fledgling Haifa Room were looking for a chef specializing in Middle Eastern cuisine.

He hadn91Ƶt been looking for a change, but he couldn91Ƶt pass up the opportunity.

91ƵIf I was going to make a dream menu, it would be this menu anyways,91Ƶ he says.

Hemi has since relocated to Vancouver, becoming a co-owner of Bar Haifa. He says the new offering is a 91Ƶfiner service91Ƶ than its more laid-back counterpart in Toronto.

The menu features an array of side dishes and small plates, from the seasonal humus 91Ƶ currently served with Brussels sprouts, pistachio gastrique and zhug, a hot sauce with roots in Yemen 91Ƶ to roasted root vegetables with smoked labneh.

There91Ƶs also shakshuka and sabich 91Ƶ a pita packed with fried eggplant, cabbage and a soft-boiled egg 91Ƶ as well as a rotating fish dish, several offerings with chicken, and shipud, a strip loin skewer with caramelized fennel and shallots.

Hemi is particularly proud of the boneless lamb shoulder, cooked sous vide for 24-hours and served with shawarma spice, herb tahini and garlic sauce.

Hemi says he91Ƶs never before had customers thank him for opening a restaurant, but people have come into Bar Haifa, saying, 91Ƶthe world needs this, the city needs this.91Ƶ

91ƵThey believe in what we believe in,91Ƶ he says.

Mostly, though, Hemi says they just want to serve delicious, thoughtful meals.

91ƵIt91Ƶs cool that we work together and we all come from different backgrounds, but also, we want to have a good restaurant.91Ƶ

As for that contentious falafel recipe for the Haifa Room? 91ƵEverybody91Ƶs mom has the best falafel recipe, the best humus recipe,91Ƶ Hakim says.

The discussions were heated, he says, but 91Ƶthat91Ƶs what family does.91Ƶ

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