From now until the end of the summer, Capital News reporters are going behind the scenes in the industries that make the local economy tick and we're bringing the stories to readers. The first of this series looks at the food and drink industry.
If you pull your stereotypes from popular TV programs, successful chefs should be bombastic tyrants, hurling insults and cutlery at anything deemed less than perfect.
Wrapped in crisp double-breasted chef coats with jaunty white hats atop their heads, they91裸聊视频檙e alluring and repugnant all at once.
A walking contradiction reflecting the base pleasures inherent in gloriously culinary concoctions and the ugly work needed to deliver them, night after night.
Of course, reality is rarely found on TV.
What those screen-dwelling caricatures have done in the real world, however, is build the public91裸聊视频檚 appetite for fine dining, making way for real chefs in cities both big and small to build on their trade and grow their profile.
Locally that rising culinary standard has been further shaped by the success of the valley91裸聊视频檚 wine industry.Those who really have succeeded know how to capitalize on both.
That brings us to Mark Filatow, the chef at Waterfront Wines who91裸聊视频檚 also a sommelier.
He makes the news often, so I was familiar with his name before I took Okanagan College91裸聊视频檚 three-day food and wine pairing intensive class last week.
It was still, perhaps because of those stereotypes, a bit daunting to walk into the classroom of which he was at the helm, but luckily the day started with wine.
Also, Filatow91裸聊视频檚 remarkably pleasant demeanour was a stark contrast to all preconceptions usually attached to someone whose background reads like the society pages for chefs.
He began a culinary apprenticeship in 1996 working with chef Rod Butters at Tofino91裸聊视频檚 Wickaninnish Inn. After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for chef John Bishop at Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef Michael Noble. In 2001 he joined Butters, and with Audrey Surrao, became part of the opening team of Kelowna91裸聊视频檚 Fresco, which is now RauDZ.
He started running his own restaurant in November 2004 and opened Kelowna91裸聊视频檚 Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar.
It91裸聊视频檚 won numerous awards including being dubbed one of Canada91裸聊视频檚 Best New Restaurants by EnRoute Magazine and tallied five consecutive years of Wine Spectator91裸聊视频檚 91裸聊视频淎ward of Excellence.91裸聊视频� Most recently Vancouver Magazine named Waterfront Wines the best in the Okanagan.
Filatow offered up a truncated version of that history, which focused a lot on food-loving European parents and skipped the name-dropping I just included, when the class got underway.
He then asked those in attendance what brought them to the class, what their favourite/least favourite food and wine combinations were and offered up encouraging nods and comments to every nugget of information offered.
It was abundantly clear from that moment onward that I had no business being among the collection of industry types and connoisseurs.
Searching my mind for qualifications I remembered when a soju-soaked fortune teller in Seoul said that I91裸聊视频檇 never find my life purpose until I ran a restaurant.
Or maybe I could tell them I was there because I91裸聊视频檓 Greek-ish and that91裸聊视频檚 just what Greeks, even the 91裸聊视频渋sh91裸聊视频� ones, seem to do?
My grandfather was a pastry chef who classically trained in Paris and other stops across Europe. When he grew up and had a family, he immigrated with them from Cyprus to Montreal where he and my grandmother put their combined skills to work and opened a restaurant.
It went on for awhile, and then it was gone.
The recipes that they and their children continued to make lived on and made me a great eater91裸聊视频攁 skill I leave off my resum茅, though it sticks to my hips.
The most legitimate reason for me to be there, however, is the belief that all Okanaganites, especially those of us who have been here awhile and watched the food and beverage industry explode without much of an idea of how to get our bearings, should get a crash course in what91裸聊视频檚 become the defining characteristic of the valley.
A wine tour just doesn91裸聊视频檛 cut it and I don91裸聊视频檛 have the budget or the stomach for trying everything.
So, I was there to eat, learn, drink, for us91裸聊视频攖he common Okanaganite.
Not the stuff of a Julia Roberts movie, but somebody needs to make the sacrifice.
And what a sacrifice it was.
The class tasted a selection of quality local wines paired with foods Filatow prepared in front of us.
My classmates tossed around terms like 91裸聊视频渂arnyard-y91裸聊视频� and 91裸聊视频渙range peel.91裸聊视频滻 mostly said 91裸聊视频渞ed,91裸聊视频� 91裸聊视频渨hite,91裸聊视频� 91裸聊视频済ood91裸聊视频� and 91裸聊视频渂ad.91裸聊视频�
We talked about how a good wine stays on the palate longer, and applied free market economic theory to drink appreciation.
91裸聊视频淚f you pay for it, you taste it differently,91裸聊视频� said Filatow, who, for the record, keeps wine notes in his phone, under headings like, appearance, nose, palate.
And, as he goes, he puts in notes about what foods the wine may pair well with.
There91裸聊视频檚 an app for that, but he91裸聊视频檚 not a fan. Nor does he particularly like the fact that Gew眉rztraminers always come with the suggestion that they pair well with 91裸聊视频渟picy Asian food.91裸聊视频�
It91裸聊视频檚 a cop-out in labelling and a disservice to consumers that apparently really bothers him.
Filatow explained that a wine that has a lot of tannins91裸聊视频攖hat stuff that makes your gums feel dry91裸聊视频攏eeds a big protein like steak.
He also taught us that some foods can make a wine sing, while others are pure mouth-torture.
And there were some dishier nuggets. Filatow once mentioned, without naming names, there are some wines in the valley he would never feature in his restaurant, regardless of the seal on the label.
Another in-the-know classmate talked about how bulk wine sales are going to become more common because some wineries have reached land-lease agreements that left them a massive amount of grapes they made into wine.
The trouble with abundance, however, is finding the supply a home, thus the big-quantity sales of the future.
Best of all, however, was when we were taken out of the classroom and put into situations where we got to see Filatow interact with the men and women who produce the products he uses in his restaurant. They all had their own pairings prepared.
Stops on this tour included Bad Tattoo brewing, where locally made beer rivals wine in its story and adherence to production.
Brodo restaurant in Penticton was also featured.
And the one that sparked my appetite for more was the Upper Bench Winery and creamery.
Its cheeses and wines were delicious, but you know that feeling you get when you meet people you want to keep talking to? That91裸聊视频檚 what this place oozes.
The owners, wine-making husband and cheese-making wife Gavin and Shana Miller, decided to get into business when Gavin wanted to make a wine he could afford to drink91裸聊视频� or so the charming anecdote began.
He91裸聊视频檚 known for big red wines, and built up his reputation through wine making at Poplar Grove and Painted Rock. Shana became a cheese-maker at Poplar Grove.
Somewhere along the way they decided to branch out.
At the tail end of a remarkably romantic sounding post-bankruptcy sale, they and a partner became owners of a gorgeous little spot on the Naramata Bench, where I91裸聊视频檓 almost sure people fall in love with them daily.
They talk about their cheeses and wines like they were beautiful living creations.
All Shana91裸聊视频檚 cheeses are boys, 91裸聊视频渨hich is why they91裸聊视频檙e so difficult.91裸聊视频�
It makes sense because all the things worth loving are difficult, and it91裸聊视频檚 clear love of her craft is a not so secret ingredient.
Gavin said he91裸聊视频檚 woken up in the wee hours on more than one occasion to see her illuminated by the warm glow of YouTube91裸聊视频檚 cheese making clips.
Her cheeses are paired with Gavin91裸聊视频檚 wines, which he said he91裸聊视频檚 lucky enough to make on a smaller scale, allowing a focus on quality.
That, he explained while bringing us into the fields behind the shop, is a reflection of what91裸聊视频檚 in the vineyard.
Before the Millers took over, the space had been bankrupted twice, and the land was used at maximum capacity. Abused, they intimated.
To make things right, Gavin reduced the volume of grapes they produced and they stopped using chemicals, like Round-up, which from the sounds of things, is a vineyard favourite.
They even showed how to spot the difference between a vineyard that uses chemicals and one that doesn91裸聊视频檛. Check between the vines. If there is unruly grass and underbrush, then you91裸聊视频檙e in a chemical free zone. If it91裸聊视频檚 parched and clear, something less than organic is going on.
And that is kind of the foundation for his wine making. He told us that he was once told by a successful wine maker that the job is not about making wine, per se. It91裸聊视频檚 about taking care of the grapes from start to finish, and if it91裸聊视频檚 done with care you can be sure of a quality product.
The Millers have an attitude that isn91裸聊视频檛 totally unique in the valley. It was reflected in Filatow91裸聊视频檚 lectures, as well as the comments from others woven into the course.
Good quality food and drink that91裸聊视频檚 ultimately an homage to the geography it springs from amounts to a story in every bite, sip, or slurp. And that91裸聊视频檚 something we uninitiated Okanaganites know a thing or two about.
While not all of us may have the palate or paycheques needed to really immerse ourselves in the Okanagan91裸聊视频檚 flashiest industry, the geography is a good chunk of why we are all here.
So, next time you have a sip or a bite, take a minute to think about its story. I know I will. And it will taste all the more 91裸聊视频渂arnyard-y91裸聊视频� for it.
Unless that91裸聊视频檚 a bad thing91裸聊视频91裸聊视频檓 still not sure. But I91裸聊视频檓 certainly not going to be afraid to ask in the future, especially if I come across the likes of those I met in the program.
