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A sommelier and chef head to northern B.C. to grow mushrooms

Mushroom growers turn personal consumption into commercial operation in Smithers, B.C.
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Golden oysters from Smithereens Mushrooms, a mushroom farm in Smithers B.C., started by Marie-Eve Arseneault and Alexis Galus. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)

Fungus or not, the vegetable that grows out of composting matter is loaded with protein, vitamins, minerals and fibre. So what makes one suddenly want to start growing mushrooms?

French Canadian sommelier Marie-Eve Arseneault and French chef Alexis Galus began growing lion91裸聊视频檚 mane mushrooms in Smithers, B.C., for their own culinary and medicinal purposes; however, in 2020, a landslide closed the only road leading up to Smithers.

91裸聊视频淣o trucks or food trucks were coming up north 91裸聊视频 We realized that if something really big happened, we don91裸聊视频檛 have many [food producers] up north. And we were already growing for our own personal consumption, so we decided, well, let91裸聊视频檚 get going,91裸聊视频 Arseneault told Black Press Media.

The couple built a container farm on their property, allowing them to do everything from scratch 91裸聊视频 whether inoculating mushrooms or selling mycelium liquid cultures to other mushroom growers.

91裸聊视频淥ne of the things we thought about when building our farm is that mushrooms are a crop that can go bad quickly, so we thought, 91裸聊视频榳hat can we do not to put our products in the garbage?91裸聊视频91裸聊视频

So they added another container to the farm and built a kitchen, allowing them to process their mushrooms.

Along with being a food producer in the north, Arseneault said that vegetarians and vegans are growing in number, and mushrooms are becoming the centre of a plate, instead of a side. On average, they grow around 20 varieties of mushrooms, adding seasonal varieties depending on the climate the mushrooms like.

91裸聊视频淭he lion91裸聊视频檚 mane mushroom looks like your brain and tastes a bit like lobster or shrimp. When you cook it, it91裸聊视频檚 so versatile. You can pull it as pork or you can make crab cakes or cook it like a steak. Chestnut mushrooms have cute caps and are really crunchy. Black poplar is a little bit more nutty flavour.

91裸聊视频淲e91裸聊视频檙e definitely in the shroom boom,91裸聊视频 said Arseneault.

Arseneault and Galus met in Montreal91裸聊视频檚 restaurant industry before venturing to Whistler, B.C., in 2008. After Galus91裸聊视频 visa ran out in 2011, they headed to Australia, where they could finally learn English 91裸聊视频 as it turned out, Whistler was filled with Francophones.

The couple returned to Whistler in 2014, staying only briefly. A ski trip in Smithers convinced them to establish roots in the northern town by early 2015.

While the adventurous couple has had to slow down in terms of travelling, things continue to be busy.

91裸聊视频淢ushroom farming is like dairy farming. You have to be here every day, so it91裸聊视频檚 a pretty big change.91裸聊视频

The couple91裸聊视频檚 son, S枚ren Galus, who turns five this summer, helps out, too.

91裸聊视频淗e pretends to love mushrooms at the market, but he doesn91裸聊视频檛 like eating them,91裸聊视频 laughed Arseneault.

91裸聊视频淭he only thing I have been able to trick him with is the lion91裸聊视频檚 mane because it91裸聊视频檚 a little bit like tofu in many ways. So I91裸聊视频檝e been pretending it91裸聊视频檚 chicken and stuff.91裸聊视频

When the fruiting blocks are ready, which are a mix of hardwood pellets and soil, they turn white. This means the mushrooms have fully colonized the blocks. Next, they move from incubation to the fruiting room. Here, they can control the humidity, CO2 levels, airflow (changed every five to six minutes) and temperature, which is necessary in a climate where temperatures go from -40 C to 30 C seasonally.

91裸聊视频淔or example, the black pearl, if we give it too much humidity, it91裸聊视频檒l show signs of too much humidity, but another mushroom will love that amount.91裸聊视频

Cleanliness is a huge factor when it comes to mushroom growing. To help combat this, the walls in the facility are made of plastic panels. In addition, the fruiting room is deep cleaned once a week, with individual areas cleaned more often as needed.

After the fruiting room comes the kitchen, where fresh mushrooms are processed 91裸聊视频 dehydrated or perhaps turned into a mushroom risotto 91裸聊视频 and packaged before being sent to retailers or heading to the local farmers91裸聊视频 market.

The mushroom farm, licenced with the Canadian Food Inspection Agency, grows lion91裸聊视频檚 mane mushrooms, blue oysters, black pearls, turkey tails, chestnuts, golden mushrooms and more.

91裸聊视频淔or me, coming from the wine industry, where you always have something to learn, mushrooms are exactly the same,91裸聊视频 said Arseneault.

91裸聊视频淲e have so much to discover.91裸聊视频

Learn more about the mushroom farmers by visiting smithereensmushroom.com.

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Smithereens Mushroom grows mushrooms, with the fruiting room on the left and their commercial kitchen on the right. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)
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Mother of pearl mushrooms from Smithereens Mushrooms, a mushroom farm in Smithers B.C., started by Marie-Eve Arseneault and Alexis Galus. (Photo by Smithereens Mushrooms)


Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

About the Author: Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

I joined Black Press Media in 2022, and have a passion for covering topics on women91裸聊视频檚 rights, 2SLGBTQIA+ and racial issues, mental health and the arts.
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